Mention the idiom "nitpicking over words" (*Yao Wen Jiao Zi*), and the image that likely springs to mind is that of a stubborn pedant obsessively quibbling over every syllable. Yet, in the ancient region of Huizhou, ancestors ingeniously "materialized" this very concept within a humble little confection. As you gently break apart this unassuming block of candy, a distinct Chinese character—perhaps "Fu" (Fortune) or "Xi" (Joy)—seems to leap right into your fingertips. This is *Qianzi Doutang* (Embedded-Character Bean Candy), a culinary marvel from Qimen, Anhui, recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage and lauded by the CCTV documentary *A Bite of China*—a treat that has truly stood the test of time. It is not merely a piece of candy; it is an edible aesthetic experience of Chinese calligraphy.
In an era where mechanized assembly lines dominate the food industry, savoring a piece of authentic *Qianzi Doutang* still requires navigating a months-long "natural relay race." The renown of *Qianzi Doutang* lies in the characters formed by sesame seeds embedded within its neat, square blocks of bean candy. Its creation is no overnight feat; it demands a meticulous process involving grinding, boiling, rolling, and cutting. It all begins with the most unpretentious, rustic ingredients: plump soybeans, jet-black sesame seeds, and maltose—a syrup brewed from fermented sprouted wheat and glutinous rice. There are no complex food additives here—only the artisan's consummate mastery over heat and pressure. In terms of physical dimensions, each cut piece of candy is slightly larger than a copper coin but smaller than a modern coin; yet, within every single piece lies a Chinese character symbolizing good fortune and auspiciousness.
Boiling the syrup is a delicate dance with time. Once the maltose liquid enters the pot, it is subjected to a rapid, high-heat boil for twenty minutes—a phase during which the master craftsman must remain absolutely transfixed, never taking his eyes off the brew. If the heat is insufficient, the candy remains too soft to take shape; if boiled for too long, it hardens into an unyielding block that is impossible to bite through.
Mixing the dough represents the crystallization of experience. Roasted soybeans are ground into a fine powder and blended with warm maltose syrup, then kneaded into a pliable yellow dough; the black sesame seeds undergo the same process to form a contrasting black dough. The two—one yellow, one black—resemble the interplay of *Xuan* paper and rich, dark ink.
Assembling the characters marks the soulful climax of this entire craft. The only tools required are a single knife and two wooden boards. Holding his breath and focusing his mind, the master craftsman slices the black sugar strips into fine threads, then swiftly assembles them on the cutting board to form the characters for "Fortune, Prosperity, Longevity, and Joy." Next, using a yellow dough made from soybean flour as his "paper," he meticulously wraps these characters, encasing them without a single gap. The entire process is a race against time; once the sugar cools and hardens, it can no longer bond together seamlessly.
Stretching and slicing—this is the moment of magic. Two masters grasp the ends of the wrapped sugar log, working in perfect sync to apply a delicate, rhythmic tension as they pull it back and forth. The log, originally just a few dozen centimeters long, gradually elongates until it transforms into a slender, uniform cylinder. Finally, with a swift, decisive motion of the knife, coin-thick slices fall away; the cross-sections of the once-stout sugar log now clearly reveal a series of exquisite, lively Chinese characters—each a perfect interplay of light and shadow, resembling the lead type of movable-type printing.
From boiling the sugar and kneading the flour to the final slicing, a single piece of this small, square candy undergoes no fewer than 28 distinct, purely handmade steps.
The origins of *Qianzi Doutang* (Inlaid-Character Bean Candy) can be traced back to the Ming and Qing dynasties. In Qimen County, within the historic region of Huizhou, this confection shares a common lineage with the local *Xin'an* opera—a tradition still fondly celebrated by the community. Imagine the scene beneath the ancient stage of Yuqing Hall—built during the Tongzhi reign of the Qing dynasty—where the people of Huizhou sit perched on small stools, raptly listening to the performance. Accompanied by the melodious strains of the opera, they reach into their pockets, retrieve a piece of *Qianzi Doutang*, and place it on their tongues. The rich, mellow flavors of soybean and sesame dissolve on the palate, while the subtle sweetness of malt sugar offers the perfect balm to soothe the fatigue of a hard day's labor. The bean candy is sweet, to be sure; yet, lingering far longer than the sweetness itself are the auspicious meanings and the distinctively Eastern romance encapsulated within those square Chinese characters.
However, this exquisite, heaven-defying intangible cultural heritage—a true marvel of craftsmanship—has, amidst the surging tides of history, faced the brink of extinction on several occasions.
The creation of *Qianzi Doutang* is not only physically grueling but also demands the patience to "sit out the cold bench"—to endure long periods of quiet, solitary dedication in pursuit of mastery. The younger generation would rather head to the city to work than toil away in stuffy workshops, sweating profusely as they boil sugar and painstakingly assemble characters. Just a few years ago, fewer than twenty artisans across the entire country truly possessed this craft—most of them elderly individuals well into their seventies. With the market flooded by cheap, mass-produced candies from automated assembly lines, who would still be willing to spend hours waiting for a single, fragile piece of handmade *Qianzi Doutang* (Inlaid-Character Bean Candy)?
Fortunately, true treasures never remain buried in the dust forever. In 2017, the art of making *Qianzi Doutang* was successfully inscribed on Anhui Province’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list, marking a turning point for this traditional craft. Led by representative inheritors such as Jin Huimin and Wang Zhenhua, the artisans embarked on a mission of self-preservation and innovation. On one hand, they established an Intangible Cultural Heritage Experience Center and launched "Heritage + Educational Tourism" programs, allowing children to experience this ancient craft firsthand. On the other, they improved packaging and overcame seasonal limitations, enabling *Qianzi Doutang* to reach markets far beyond its local origins.
Today, this craft has not only survived but has also become a sensation. During the recent Spring Festival—the Year of the Horse—sales of *Qianzi Doutang* in the Qimen region alone surpassed 100,000 *jin* (approx. 50,000 kg), generating revenue of over 800,000 yuan. Custom-made candies bearing greetings such as "Good Luck in the Year of the Snake" even emerged to meet popular demand. This ancient craft is now seamlessly integrating into modern life in a vibrant and dynamic way.
The cross-section of every piece of *Qianzi Doutang* reveals a miniature microcosm of Huizhou culture. Within it lies the reverence our ancestors held for the written word, their passion for life, and their almost stubborn dedication to their craft. Much like this humble piece of bean candy—imbued with the essence of Chinese culture and laden with deep emotional significance—it appears all the more precious today precisely because it has faced the very real threat of fading into oblivion. As we marvel at how this candy is both "beautiful to behold and delicious to eat," we are, in essence, engaging in an act of cultural affirmation. It is our hope that this bean candy—a vessel for the beauty of Chinese characters and the soul of intangible cultural heritage—will, through the collective guardianship of many, be passed down from generation to generation, remaining forever fresh and enduring.
